Photographic Wonders of China’s Four Sisters Mountain & Siguniangshan National Park
By Nat Hab Expedition Leader Eddy Savage
One of the most striking aspects of the mountains leading up to the Tibetan Plateau is just how huge they are. On our Wild Side of China Photo Expedition, we journey through the Qionglai Mountain range, west of Chengdu, and find ourselves in the foothills of the Himalayas. We pass through the Wolong National Nature Reserve, climb several thousand feet, and drive through a series of tunnels to find our view of the mighty Mount Siguniang, which translates to Four Sisters Mountain. Standing at 20,510 feet, Four Sisters Mountain is taller than any mountain in North America (Mount Denali stands at 20,310 feet). We spend the night in nearby Rilong where we are poised to arrive at Siguniangshan National Park as soon as they open the gates. This UNESCO World Heritage Site boasts sub-alpine coniferous forests, Tibetan villages, herds of domesticated yak, rare sub-alpine birds and tranquil mountain streams that delight my inner photographer. I’ve compiled some of my favorites for your enjoyment.
Our first stop on the way to Siguniangshan National Park is this stunning vista of Four Sisters Mountain. On a clear day, the four peaks can be prominently seen in the distance.
Peaks of Four Sisters Mountain from left to right:
Yaomei Peak – 20,510 ft
Sanguniang Peak – 16,486 ft
Erguniang Peak – 17,310 ft
Daguniang Peak – 17,569 ft
It’s an extraordinary experience getting closer to the park. We drive through Wolong National Nature Reserve, which has broad-leaf deciduous forests at the valley bottom. By the time we climb out of that valley, we are in a mixed coniferous forest—from sub-tropical to sub-alpine in just a couple of hours.
There are three large glacially carved valleys within the park. We spend our day in the Shuangqiao Valley and explore over 20 miles of roads and trails at 11,000 to 13,000 feet elevation. Whether you’re on a spring or fall departure, there is always a chance of snowfall. However, the mid-day sun usually melts most of it away by the afternoon. It always makes for some dramatic scenery.
Heading west in Sichuan Province brings you closer to the Tibetan Plateau. As soon as you cross the mountain pass from the Wolong National Nature Reserve, more evidence of Tibetan culture is present.
As a photographer, the vibrance of these Tibetan prayer flags allows for some unique images. I love the contrast between the harsh and rugged mountain and the colorful flags.
The Tibetan prayer flags all have writings meant to promote peace, compassion, strength and wisdom. They blow in the wind, spreading those words to the surrounding land and people for the benefit of all.
Tibetan prayer wheels have prayers and mantras written on them, so spinning them effectively sends the prayer into the surrounding area. They were initially designed for people who were illiterate or could not speak. Some prayer wheels are powered by wind, fire or water. We see lots of these around on our photo expedition, and we spend a lot of time looking for ways to capture their deep meaning in an image.
Lots of rivers and creeks flow down from adjacent hanging valleys. You can see evidence of the harshness of winter everywhere—rockfalls, landslides, floodplains, etc. The main river, however, has found the valley bottom and meanders gently adjacent to the trails and roads we use. Finding that perfect shot is a goal of ours.
This sub-alpine park also offers opportunities for new wildlife. While rare and unlikely to be seen, red pandas inhabit surrounding forests. Also, altitude-specific birds like the grandala pictured (a member of the Thrush family) may make an appearance.
This tranquil scene is where the valley levels out, and the river widens. The stream is shallow and very slow-moving, and over time, different water levels have occupied the valley bottom. This has allowed clusters of trees to grow in some of the previously exposed land. This is the place to be if you’re looking for epic reflections and foreground.
This area is nicknamed “The Chinese Alps.” The valley is surrounded by numerous 14,000-17,000-foot-high mountains. There is a new dramatic scene around every bend in the road.
As we climb higher into the park, the trees become sparse. Several belts of trees have clung to the mountainsides around the main river tributaries, beautiful and dramatic in contrast to the mountains behind.
The valley is about 20 miles long, and we spend the day finding new ways to photograph the scenery on drives and hikes.
And finally, being at a higher elevation, we start to see domesticated yak around every corner. The mountain valleys have been the preferred grazing spot of domesticated yak for hundreds of years, and this is likely the only place we’ll regularly see them on our photo expedition.
Domesticated yak of all ages greet us along the roadsides and in meadows. I really enjoy being able to photograph them with their habitat so prominently displayed behind them.
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